I think you can change your layout even without a paid account, but I don't know how much you can customize it. If you go to http://www.livejournal.com/customize/ and can see the "Advanced" tab, it means you can customize pretty much everything. To add a header pic I changed the code in the "Your layers" part, I copied/pasted the code I found on a community and just changed the pic URL. But it may be different depending on which base layout you're using, mine's "Flexible Squares". Oh, and S2 system btw, which lets you change colours/fonts/basic settings without having to use html codes. :)
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I think you can change your layout even without a paid account, but I don't know how much you can customize it. If you go to http://www.livejournal.com/customize/ and can see the "Advanced" tab, it means you can customize pretty much everything. To add a header pic I changed the code in the "Your layers" part, I copied/pasted the code I found on a community and just changed the pic URL. But it may be different depending on which base layout you're using, mine's "Flexible Squares". Oh, and S2 system btw, which lets you change colours/fonts/basic settings without having to use html codes. :)